You’ve probably seen climbers at the gym going up and down the same route over and over and over, and thought to yourself, “Isn’t that boring?” Getting stronger isn’t always glamorous, and while this exercise may seem tedious, it is incredibly effective.
Learn why endurance matters, the different types of endurance, and how to last longer by following along!
Why Endurance Matters More Than You Think
The biggest thing you’ll notice with improved endurance is that your gym sessions will start to take more time. If you don’t adjust the grades you’re climbing, you could easily spend far more time than you planned to at the climbing gym.
Following specific climbing workouts will change the way you approach climbing. More climbing endurance unlocks more challenging routes. This doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll be able to skip three letter grades right away, but you will be able to make more moves on harder routes without using all your energy.
Common signs your endurance needs work include:
- You’re pumping out early on routes well below your max grade.
- You feel strong at the start, but quickly fade.
- You struggle to recover from decent rest holds.
- You’re avoiding long or overhanging climbs.
- You’re continuously pumped, even after a solid warm-up.
Types of Climbing Endurance (Yes, There’s More Than One)
Power Endurance
This refers to your ability to sustain high-intensity effort over a short to moderate period. Think long cruxes, steep overhangs, or sustained bouldery sequences. You’re operating near your physical limit, and your muscles are screaming because they’re using energy faster than your body can replenish it.
Aerobic Endurance
This is your low-to-moderate intensity stamina; the kind that helps you stay on the wall for 10+ minutes, recover on decent holds, and keep climbing efficiently without fatiguing too quickly.
In short:
Power endurance is your sprint. Aerobic endurance is your marathon. Climbing workouts help develop both to become well-rounded and ready for whatever the next route calls for.
Building a Solid Endurance Base
ARC Training
ARC stands for Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity training. It’s a low-intensity, high-volume climbing workout designed to build your aerobic base and improve blood flow (capillary density) in your forearms. The goal is simple: climb for an extended period without getting pumped, like that climber you read about in the introduction.
How to do it right:
- Choose easy terrain—routes or problems well below your limit.
- Climb continuously for 15–45 minutes without coming off the wall.
- Stay just below the pump threshold—slight fatigue is okay, but don’t push into a full pump.
- Rest for about the same amount of time as you climb.
- Focus on movement efficiency, quiet feet, and breathing.
Low-Intensity Climbing Workouts That Actually Work
- Downclimbing: This technique adds time and control, making it great for building endurance under tension.
- Zig-zag traverses: Use the bottom panels of the gym or the bouldering wall to move horizontally for longer durations. (Make sure you don’t get in anyone’s way.)
- Route link-ups: After climbing a route, choose one on the same anchor or close by to maximize your climbing in a short period.
- Footwork-focused ARC: Focus on quiet, precise movement to build both endurance and technique.
How Often You Should Train Endurance (Without Burning Out)
- 2–3 times per week is ideal during an endurance-focused phase
- Avoid doing back-to-back ARC sessions. Your body needs recovery to adapt!
- Combine ARC with strength and technique training to maintain balance.
- Don’t try to build endurance and maximum strength at full volume simultaneously—cycle your focus.
Off-the-Wall Climbing Workouts That Pay Off on the Wall
Most climbers associate hangboards with max finger strength, but with the right approach, they’re also great for endurance. Instead of short, heavy hangs, endurance-focused protocols involve longer durations, lighter loads, and shorter rests to mimic the fatigue of sustained climbing.
Try these endurance hangboard methods:
- Repeaters: Hang for 7–10 seconds, rest for 3–5 seconds, repeat for 5–10 rounds before taking a longer rest.
- Long-duration hangs: Hold for 30+ seconds at a lower intensity to build aerobic capacity in your forearms.
- Ladders and pyramids: Vary hold times and rest intervals to keep your fingers adapting without overtraining.
- Always use edges you can comfortably hold with good form—don’t chase intensity here.
While the campus board is usually seen as a power tool, it can be repurposed for power endurance with the right structure. You’re not maxing out with big dynos—instead, you’re building time on the board through sustained, controlled movement.
Effective campus drills for endurance:
- Ladders with feet on: Move steadily up and down using large rungs, focusing on rhythm and control rather than explosion.
- Timed efforts: Set a timer (30 seconds to 1 minute) and climb continuously up and down without stopping. Use the large rungs if needed.
- Rest-to-work ratio training: Alternate short sets with brief rest to simulate the rhythm of climbing long routes.
Climbing Workouts Work
Like anything, the only way to see progress is to be consistent. You won’t see those gains by doing a single hangboard workout or ARC session. You must stick to a regimen, such as two to three times a week during your training period, to reap the benefits and climb harder/longer. Stick with it and you’re sure to see some progress!
